Every costume I make has a story.
Sometimes it begins with a film.
Sometimes with a museum.
Sometimes with a forgotten piece of fabric hidden at the back of my cupboard.
And sometimes...
It begins with a book that refuses to leave my mind.
This costume started exactly that way.
A Book That Stayed on My Bookshelf...
...Even When I Had Finished Reading It
A few years ago, I reviewed the historical novel The Flower of Wisdom (Bloem der Wijsheid) by Dutch author Joanna de Wit for my book review website.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.
The novel tells the story of Susanna van Baerle, a real historical woman living during one of the most fascinating periods in Dutch history. Against the background of the Synod of Dordrecht (1618–1619), Joanna beautifully combines history with personal drama.
But something unexpected happened.
Long after I had finished the final chapter...
I kept looking at the cover.
The book stood upright in my bookcase for months.
Not because I had forgotten to put it away.
Because I loved looking at it.
Especially the dress.
Sometimes inspiration quietly sits on a bookshelf, patiently waiting.
Falling in Love with a Dress
The gown on the cover fascinated me.
Its rich colours.
Its elegant silhouette.
The luxurious fabrics.
The quiet dignity it radiated.
As a costume maker, I found myself studying the cover almost as often as I had read the novel itself.
Eventually, I stopped asking myself,
"Isn't that a beautiful dress?"
Instead I asked,
"Could I actually make it?"
That was the beginning of a six-month adventure.
A Painting Doesn't Tell the Whole Story
One challenge became obvious immediately.
The cover only showed part of the dress.
The rest simply didn't exist.
At least...
Not on the cover.
That meant I had to become both costume maker and designer.
Some details had to be reconstructed.
Others had to be interpreted.
The shoulders, for example.
In the artwork they appear almost impossibly wide and elegantly draped.
Beautiful to look at.
Not particularly practical to wear.
Paintings often follow the beauty ideals of their own time rather than physical reality.
So I decided to stay faithful to the atmosphere instead of copying every detail exactly.
That, I believe, is much more interesting.
Building the Dress
Rather than making one garment, I designed an entire outfit consisting of three separate pieces.
A shimmering gold underskirt.
A richly decorated white blouse with wide sleeves.
And finally...
The sleeveless overdress that forms the heart of the costume.
Hidden between the lining and the outer fabric are almost eighteen metres of gathered tulle.
Yes...
Eighteen metres.
All carefully distributed to create graceful volume without needing an extra petticoat underneath.
Sometimes the things nobody ever sees are the things that make a costume truly special.
Choosing Fabrics Wisely
Historical gowns are often made from heavy velvet and brocade.
Beautiful.
Magnificent.
And unbelievably heavy.
Instead, I chose a lightweight stretch velvet with a subtle shimmer.
It was not the easiest fabric to sew.
Far from it.
But it allowed the gown to remain comfortable while still looking wonderfully luxurious.
The blouse was made from a jacquard cotton blend.
The golden underskirt?
Believe it or not...
It started life as a second-hand curtain.
One of my favourite things about costume making is discovering unexpected materials.
Sometimes treasures are hiding in the most ordinary places.
Every Decoration Has a Purpose
Once the dress itself was finished, the real fun began.
Silver clasps.
Rows of pearls.
Decorative braid.
Elegant lace.
Little by little the costume gained character.
Many of those embellishments also helped disguise seams and construction lines.
One of the lovely things about historical costume making is that beauty and practicality often work together.
Then Came...
The Photoshoot
If you think recreating a historical dress is difficult...
Try recreating the pose on a book cover.
Our photographer, Robert Dijkstra, deserves endless patience.
Again and again we adjusted the skirt.
Moved the sleeves.
Changed my posture.
Turned my head.
Straightened the ruff.
Smoothed the fabric.
We quickly discovered that copying a painted pose is almost impossible.
Painters are allowed to bend reality.
Models are not.
In the end we created our own interpretation.
Not an exact copy.
Something better.
A tribute.
An Unexpected Honour
When the photographs were finally finished, something wonderful happened.
One of them was selected for the homepage of Photocommunity as a featured image.
I still remember how proud that made me feel.
Not because awards are the goal.
But because they tell you that other people see the same beauty you hoped to create.
That is always a very special moment.
Looking Back
This project took me almost six months.
Research.
Sketches.
Pattern adjustments.
Finding fabrics.
Sewing.
Decorating.
Planning the photoshoot.
Trying again.
And trying once more.
Would I do it all again?
Without hesitation.
Because this project reminded me that recreating history is not about making an exact copy.
It is about understanding the spirit of another time.
That journey is where the real joy lies.
And perhaps that is why this remains my favourite gown I have ever made.
Not simply because it is beautiful.
But because every stitch tells the story of a book that quietly inspired me to create something entirely my own.
Technical Notes for Fellow Sewists
For readers who enjoy the technical side of costume making:
- Bodice: based on Butterick 6196
- Blouse: adapted from Simplicity 8162
- Underskirt: made from a recycled gold curtain
- Outer fabric: lightweight stretch velvet with subtle sparkle
- Blouse fabric: jacquard cotton blend
- Hidden construction: almost 18 metres of gathered tulle built into the skirt
- Finishing: pearls, lace, silver clasps and decorative braid
Sometimes the best historical costumes are built with a mixture of traditional techniques, modern materials and a little imagination.
Behind This Costume...
Every costume I make has a story.
Sometimes it starts with a film.
Sometimes with a museum.
Sometimes with a rainy holiday, a beautiful fabric or a forgotten book.
This one started with a novel that stayed on my bookshelf long after I had finished reading it.
Thank you for joining me on this journey.
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