Why I Still Love the Chanel-Style Jacket

Long before I started making historical costumes and taking on Cosplay Commissions, I had another great sewing love: the Chanel-style jacket.

In fact, I was so fascinated by these jackets that I created an entire website about them: SewingChanelStyle. On the website, I share information about sewing patterns, fabrics, construction methods and all the little details that can make the difference between an ordinary jacket and a really beautiful Chanel-style jacket.

And believe me, making one is quite an adventure.

A little like making a wedding dress

I sometimes compare making a classic Chanel-style jacket to making a wedding dress.

It is one of those sewing projects that many dressmakers consider a real challenge. You need patience, good materials and, most of all, time.

When you make the jacket in the traditional way, the bouclé fabric and the lining are quilted together. The jacket is carefully constructed, shaped and finished, with attention to all the little details.

It is not a garment you quickly make in a weekend.

For many sewists, making one is almost a once-in-a-lifetime project. You spend so many hours on it that, after finishing the jacket, you may think: Well, I have done that. Perhaps once is enough!

Except...

That did not happen to me.

One jacket became two...

I made my first one.

And then I made another.

And another.

Soon I was making different versions, trying different fabrics, different shapes and different ways of finishing the jacket.

Then came a longer jacket.

And another model.

And a cape.

And wrap skirts.

And vintage-style jackets.

And, well... you probably know how this goes.

One sewing challenge simply led to another.

Before I knew it, I had made so many that I had developed quite a lot of knowledge about the subject. My website, SewingChanelStyle, is still doing very well, and people regularly contact me with questions about fabrics, patterns and construction.

Sometimes they ask me questions as if I am the Chanel-style jacket expert in the Netherlands.

Ahem.

I am happy to accept the compliment!

But of course, I am not Claire Shaeffer. And I certainly am not Coco Chanel herself.

What I do have is many years of sewing experience, a great love for traditional couture techniques and a rather unhealthy enthusiasm for making these jackets.

The magic is in the construction

One of the techniques I particularly love is quilting the lining directly to the bouclé fabric.

It sounds simple when you say it like that.

It is not.

There is a lot of preparation, careful sewing and patience involved. The quilting has to work with the fabric rather than fight against it. The jacket needs the right amount of structure, but it should still feel comfortable and move naturally when worn.

And then there are all the other details: the pattern, the proportions, the sleeves, the edges, the buttons, the pockets and the finishing.

A good couture jacket should look effortless.

Getting it to look effortless is the difficult part.

Perhaps 99.95% perfect is a more realistic goal than 100%.

We are making clothes, after all. Not miracles.

Made by Hand, Made by Me

When you see the beautiful photographs on this website, you may sometimes wonder how the costumes and corsets are actually made.

Well, I make them myself. Every single one.

Yes, even the corsets.

I have a small atelier, a few sewing machines, a laptop, a lot of fabric and, perhaps most importantly, a lot of ideas. The photographs on this website may look very polished, but behind every finished piece is a real person sitting at a sewing machine, cutting fabric, fitting, changing things and sometimes starting again.

That is why I love showing photographs of the making process.

I want you to see the hands behind the finished costume.

What does OOAK mean?

You will often see the term OOAK on websites selling handmade and artistic work. It means One of a Kind.

In simple words: there is only one.

When I make a costume, corset or other piece as an OOAK item, I make it once. I do not produce a whole collection of identical pieces.

This is one of the things I love most about working this way. Every new project gives me the chance to create something that has never existed before.

And what is dropshipping?

Dropshipping is a very different way of selling.

With dropshipping, a shop may show products on its website, but the shop owner does not actually make or keep the products. When a customer places an order, the product is sent directly from another supplier, often a large warehouse or manufacturer.

That is not how I work.

There is no large warehouse behind Historique Couture.

There is no factory making my costumes.

And there is certainly no box of ready-made corsets waiting somewhere to be shipped to you.

I make the pieces myself, in my own small atelier.

When people see one of my historical costumes, they usually notice the finished garment. The beautiful fabric, the details, the silhouette. But every costume begins long before I thread my sewing machine.

It begins with research.

Every Costume Starts with Curiosity

One of the questions I am asked most often is, "Where do your ideas come from?"

The answer is simple: everywhere.

I spend many hours searching the internet, looking at museum collections, old paintings, historical portraits and photographs. But I also love something much more traditional. I own a growing collection of books about costume history, fashion, textiles and European history. Many evenings end with a cup of tea and several books spread across my table.

The more I learn, the more I realise there is still so much to discover.

Building the Story

Before I start making anything, I collect ideas.

I create mood boards filled with colours, fabrics, paintings, historical references and small details that capture the feeling of a period. Sometimes I also use AI to help me visualise my ideas and turn them into clear concept sketches. It never replaces my own creativity, but it is a wonderful tool for exploring possibilities before I start cutting fabric.

A costume should tell a story before the first stitch is even sewn.

Finding the Perfect Fabric

If there is one thing I have become very good at over the years, it is finding fabric.

Sometimes I think searching for fabric is almost a profession on its own.

I visit local fabric shops, large textile fairs and fabric markets whenever I can. Almost every day I browse online fabric stores looking for something special. I also enjoy searching through deadstock collections from fashion houses and ateliers, where beautiful forgotten fabrics sometimes find a second life.

The perfect fabric is rarely waiting on the front shelf.

Very often it is hidden somewhere unexpected. I have found wonderful materials in furniture fabrics, home decoration textiles and even in shops selling carnival or festive fabrics. Sometimes the most extraordinary fabric is lying quietly at the bottom of a pile, simply waiting for someone to recognise its potential.

Choosing the right fabric is one of the most important parts of creating a believable historical costume.

When people visit my website, they often notice its name.

Historique Couture.

Not Historical Costumes.

Not Fantasy Costumes.

Not Medieval Clothing.

I chose the word couture very deliberately.

Because couture says much more about how I work than simply what I make.

For me, couture means creating something unique.

Something that is made especially for one person.

Something that deserves time, patience and beautiful materials.

That philosophy has shaped the way I design every custom costume.

People sometimes ask me how I became a sewing blogger. It always makes me smile because there wasn't one magical moment when it all started. Instead, it grew naturally from my love of sewing, trying new techniques, and wanting to share my projects with others.

Cosplay Commissions

There is something fantastic about becoming your favourite character for a day.

Whether you dream of stepping into the world of anime, video games, fantasy, film, or television, I would love to help bring your character to life with a custom-made costume, created especially for you.

Every costume that leaves my atelier is made with the same love, care, and craftsmanship that I put into my historical clothing and couture creations. I don't work with standard sizes or ready-made patterns. Every commission starts with you—your measurements, your wishes, and the character you want to become.

Many of the costumes I have made over the years started with nothing more than a few screenshots, illustrations, or pieces of concept art. Even when no commercial sewing pattern exists, I enjoy studying every little detail until I understand how a costume is constructed. From there, I develop the pattern from scratch and gradually bring the design into the real world.

One of my favourite parts of the process is searching for the perfect fabrics and trims. Sometimes it feels like a treasure hunt. A certain texture, a beautiful braid, or exactly the right shade of fabric can make all the difference. My experience in historical costuming, corsetry, and couture allows me to use traditional sewing techniques whenever they help create a more beautiful, comfortable, or authentic-looking costume.

Of course, a cosplay costume should look wonderful in photographs, but I believe it should also be enjoyable to wear. Whether you're spending an afternoon at a convention, posing for a photoshoot, or entering a cosplay competition, your costume should allow you to move comfortably and feel confident throughout the day.

Over the years, many of my costumes have been photographed by visitors, professional photographers, and fellow cosplayers at conventions and events. Nothing makes me happier than seeing someone walk proudly through a convention wearing a costume that was made especially for them.

I create costumes inspired by anime, video games, fantasy, films, television, original characters, gothic designs, historical fantasy, medieval worlds, and Dark Academia. From elegant gowns and dramatic capes to fitted corsets and layered costumes, every project is different, and that's exactly what makes this work so enjoyable.

Every commission includes personal consultation, help with choosing fabrics and materials, custom pattern drafting, construction of the costume, and careful finishing with attention to the smallest details. Accessories can often be included as well, while larger props, armour, wigs, weapons, or specialised 3D-printed parts can always be discussed separately.

Because every character is unique, each costume is individually priced.

As a general guide, simple costumes start at around €500,

intermediate designs from €900,

detailed multi-layered costumes from €1,500,

and competition-level creations from approximately €2,500.

The final price depends on the complexity of the design, the fabrics, embellishments, corsetry, accessories, and the time needed to create your costume.

If you would like to commission a costume, simply send me your reference images and tell me about your plans. Whether you're preparing for your very first convention, a LARP event, a cosplay competition, or a professional photoshoot, I would be delighted to discuss your ideas with you. After we've talked through your project, I'll provide a quotation and an estimated timeline. Once your measurements have been taken, I can begin creating your costume.

For me, cosplay is much more than making clothes.

It's about telling stories.

It's about craftsmanship.

It's about seeing someone's face light up when they look in the mirror and, for just a moment, truly become the character they have admired for years.

If that sounds like the kind of costume you're looking for, I'd love to hear from you.

I am very proud to announce that Handmade Luxury Home is now online — a unique marketplace filled with beautiful handmade treasures, from original drawing art and elegant home décor to warm, cosy quilts and timeless creations for every interior.

Created as a stylish alternative to Etsy for the European Market only, this special collaboration with Paula Kuitenbrouwer brings together craftsmanship, creativity, and authentic handmade luxury in one inspiring place.

We also welcome new creative collaborations and invite artists, designers, and makers who share our passion for craftsmanship and originality to join us and become part of the Handmade Luxury Home collection.

Inside My Small Sewing Atelier – Where Every Costume Begins

People sometimes imagine that a costume atelier is a grand workshop with polished wooden floors, elegant display windows, and a team of assistants quietly sewing away. I always smile when I hear that.

My atelier couldn't be more different.

It isn't a luxury studio. It isn't a large warehouse. It isn't a commercial shop where customers walk in all day. In fact, it's simply my own creative room—a place where sewing, photography, designing, and a healthy dose of imagination all happen under one roof.

Along one wall stands a long workbench with my sewing machines lined up side by side, each one ready for its own specialty. In the middle of the room is a large cutting table where fabrics are measured, patterns are traced, and countless cups of tea have quietly watched projects come to life.

The opposite wall is surprisingly simple: plain white, with two dress forms standing patiently in front of professional studio lights. Within minutes my sewing room transforms into a photography studio. As soon as a costume is finished, I don't have to travel anywhere—I simply turn on the lights, dress the mannequin (or myself), and the photo shoot begins.

Of course, the real stars of the room are the cupboards.

Huge cupboards.

Very, very full cupboards.

Every shelf is packed with fabrics collected over many years. Silk, linen, wool, velvet, cotton... each waiting for the right project. There are drawers overflowing with ribbons, lace, trims, buckles, corset busks, eyelets, zippers, beads, and enough buttons to keep me sewing until the year 3000.

Then there are the boxes.

Boxes stacked on shelves.

Boxes under tables.

Boxes inside cupboards.

Boxes containing handmade accessories, sewing supplies, vintage treasures, carefully labelled orders, and items waiting for their new owners. Finished dresses hang neatly in long wardrobes, protected until they're ready for a photoshoot or a journey to their new home.

Is it perfectly tidy?

Not always.

Let's call it... creative organization.

Someone visiting for the first time might wonder how anything can ever be found.

Yet somehow, I know exactly where everything is.

That tiny antique brass buckle? Third drawer, left side.

A half metre of dark green wool bought five years ago? Top shelf, second cupboard.

The vintage Victorian sleeve pattern I haven't used since last winter? Of course I know where that is.

Perhaps it's a photographic memory.

Perhaps it's simply what happens when your hobby quietly becomes your life's work.

This little room has seen hundreds of projects pass through its doors. Historical gowns, theatrical costumes, fantasy creations, corsets, accessories, commissions, experiments, and plenty of ideas that began with nothing more than a sketch on a piece of paper.

Every finished costume starts here.

Not in a glamorous fashion house.

Not in a factory.

But in a small room filled with fabric, thread, inspiration, and just enough organized chaos to feel like home.

And honestly?

I wouldn't trade it for the biggest workshop in the world.

Customers from around the world have discovered my Historique Couture Etsy shop over the years, and I am truly grateful for the trust, support, and enthusiasm you have shown for my work. Every order, message, and kind review has helped my small business grow.

My Etsy boutique will remain open, and if you enjoy shopping through Etsy, you are always very welcome to continue doing so.

At the same time, I am excited to welcome you to my own Historique Couture webshop.