The Secret of the Vertugadin

Long before I even knew the word vertugadin, I was already making them.

Whenever I sew a historical costume or a fantasy dress, I always feel that something is missing if the skirt simply hangs straight down. A beautiful gown deserves a beautiful silhouette. For me, a waist should stand out, and a skirt should flow gracefully from it.

That is exactly what a vertugadin does.

It is a simple padded roll that you wear around your waist. It gently lifts the skirt and creates a fuller, more elegant shape. Suddenly the whole costume comes alive.

The funny thing is that hardly anyone ever sees it.

Most people only admire the dress. They have no idea that there is a padded roll hiding underneath, quietly doing all the hard work.

And honestly... I don't mind at all.

Because it isn't just about what people see.

It's about how the costume feels.

I love making my vertugadins from beautiful brocade and jacquard fabrics. Yes, the expensive fabrics that disappear completely underneath the skirt! It probably makes no sense... but it makes me happy every single time.

Sometimes I smile while sewing one, knowing that I may be the only person who will ever see that gorgeous fabric.

A Little History

The vertugadin first appeared during the Renaissance, especially in sixteenth-century Spain. Women wore it underneath their skirts to create a wide, elegant shape. Before long, it became fashionable throughout Europe.

It was much more than underwear. A wide skirt showed elegance, wealth and status. The bigger the silhouette, the more impressive the lady appeared.

Fortunately, today we don't wear one to show our social status.

We wear one because they're simply wonderful.

Why I Love Them

Whether I'm making a Victorian gown, a fantasy costume, or one of my Dark Academia creations, I often reach for a vertugadin.

It gives skirts beautiful volume without making them heavy.

The fabric falls better.

The waist looks smaller.

The whole costume suddenly feels balanced.

It is one of those hidden details that quietly transforms everything.

Best of all, a good vertugadin is surprisingly comfortable. Once you're wearing it, you almost forget it's there—until you catch your reflection and think, "Ah... that's exactly the shape I was hoping for."

Sometimes the secret behind a beautiful costume isn't the fabric everyone admires.

It's the part no one ever sees.