What Is Korean Silk? A Guide for Cosplay and Costume Making

Every now and then, I come across a fabric in an online fabric shop called “Korean Silk.”

The name sounds rather luxurious.

But is it really silk?

If the price is surprisingly low, the answer is usually no.

I have used this fabric myself, especially when making costumes where a strong shine, bright colour or a certain theatrical effect is needed. It is not a fabric I use for everything, and it certainly does not replace real silk. But in the right project, it can be a very useful addition to the fabric cupboard.

So, what exactly is Korean Silk?

Real Korean silk is something very different

Traditional Korean silk is a genuine silk textile made from silk fibres produced by silkworms.

Silk has played an important role in Korean history and culture for centuries. It has traditionally been used for hanbok, ceremonial clothing and other special garments. Fine Korean silk can have a beautiful soft handle and natural lustre, and some traditional textiles are decorated with elaborate patterns.

Historically, silk clothing was also connected with status and wealth. The finest fabrics were associated with important occasions and, in some periods, with the royal court.

Traditional Korean silk is therefore a very different product from the inexpensive fabric sold under the name “Korean Silk” in many modern fabric shops.

And yes, genuine silk can be very expensive.

So what is the “Korean Silk” in fabric shops?

This is where the name can be confusing.

The fabric usually sold as Korean Silk is 100% polyester. It is not made from silk fibres.

The name is mainly used to describe the appearance and type of fabric rather than its fibre content.

And it certainly has an appearance!

It is a wonderfully shiny fabric with a smooth surface and a beautiful drape. Depending on the colour and the light, it can almost look like liquid.

It is available in an enormous range of colours, from soft pink and cream to emerald green, royal blue, burgundy, purple, black, gold and many bright colours.

Some colours are particularly dramatic in photographs.

That is one reason why I sometimes use it for costumes.

Why would I use polyester?

Regular readers of Historique Couture will know that I prefer natural fabrics whenever the costume allows it.

I love linen, cotton, wool and real silk. I also try to avoid cheap-looking synthetic fabrics.

But costume making is not always about using the most luxurious fibre.

Sometimes the effect is more important.

A costume may need a very strong shine. Perhaps the character wears a highly theatrical skirt, a fantasy garment or something that needs to catch the light on stage or in photographs.

In those cases, Korean Silk can do something that a matte natural fabric simply cannot do.

And sometimes the costume itself asks for it.

That is an important part of working with costumes: choosing the fabric for the character, the design and the purpose of the garment.

Korean Silk for cosplay

This is where I find the fabric particularly interesting.

Cosplay often involves recreating a very specific visual appearance. A fabric may need to look almost exaggerated compared with everyday clothing.

For example, a character might have:

• a very shiny skirt

• a dramatic cape

• a fantasy costume

• colourful historical-inspired clothing

• theatrical sleeves

• decorative panels

• clothing designed mainly for photography or performance

For such projects, the shine of Korean Silk can be exactly what is needed.

I would rather choose the right polyester fabric for a costume than use an expensive natural fabric simply because it sounds more appropriate.

The fabric has to serve the costume.

It is not always the easiest fabric to sew

There is a small price to pay for all that shine.

Korean Silk is light and can move around quite a lot while cutting. It may shift on the table, slip while cutting and fray at the edges.

That can make accurate cutting more difficult.

It can also be a little more challenging to sew than a stable cotton or wool fabric. When several layers are involved, you need to take a little more care.

My advice is simple:

Take your time.

Use a sharp needle, test your machine settings on a scrap piece first and avoid stretching the fabric while sewing.

And when cutting, make sure the fabric is lying completely flat.

If your pattern requires a lot of fabric, I would also buy a little extra. A slippery fabric can result in more waste than a stable woven fabric.

Always order a fabric sample

This is particularly important with Korean Silk.

Online shops often offer an enormous number of colours. Sometimes the differences between them are surprisingly small.

Is it lime, pistachio or dark lime?

Is it burgundy, dark red or wine red?

And what exactly does a particular webshop mean by “peach”, “cyclamen” or “aubergine”?

The names are not always consistent between shops.

A photograph on a computer screen does not tell you everything either.

So, if colour is important for your project, order samples first.

It is a small expense that can save you from ordering several metres of the wrong colour.

What about washing?

This is another point where I would be careful.

Different fabric suppliers give different care instructions. Some specifically advise against washing the fabric.

So don't automatically treat it like washable cotton.

Always check the care instructions from the supplier you are buying from, and test a small piece if you are unsure.

For a costume commission, I would also discuss this with the client before choosing the fabric.